The Delicacy of Things

I'm reading my second biography of Ernest Hemingway. After visiting his home in Key West, I developed my usual author obsesssion but this one has surprised me with its intensity. After reading "Running With the Bulls", I've moved on to "Papa Hemingway" by Hotchner. Hemingway once said that he learned as much from painters about how to write as from writers.

(For all the gardeners that think I am grossly abusing my "garden" slot, I will blog later for "Bloomday".
Below are the pale mauve flowers of the Duranta plant.)


His characteristic 'bare as bones' style meant no generalizations or wishy washy adjectives. Just the distilling of emotion.
I think in all art forms we try to achieve this state of distillation; a concentration of reality.


This common yellow flower grows on a small shrubby trees with pinnated leaves. Occasionally the camera throws up something that you don't see with the naked eye. But you do when you look again.
This is what I would like my writing to do.
It is what Carnival does to a nation every year and it is what all good art should do. Artistic surroundings should present these mini-distillations everywhere and make the world clearer. The world may appear to be more ugly or more beautiful, but certainly the reality is conveyed with clarity.
Am I disciplined enough to stand; writing, working, and reworking, each sentence? Hemingway rose every morning and stood at his specially made pulpit-type desk to write. He sat to pay bills but always stood to write.

Garden Club

This is the Garden Club calendar that the club began producing last year. 2007 was our inception year and the calendar was very well received. The gardens are taken from the club's membership. Michele Jorsling and Peter Moll were the photographers and they have done a marvellous job.
When I scanned it, I could only get eight gardens on the back page. Think of it as a teaser! They are $100TT, which is approximately $16-$17 US.
Locally they can be found at Pop In at Ellerslie Plaza, RIK (the airport and the malls) and Rainy Days at Ellerslie. If anyone else is interested, email me and I can provide more information.

Divali Nagar

One of the most glorious things about living in a multicultural society is the chance to experience the sights, smells and sounds of another culture all within the enclave of home. Yes, we may be standing around paying homage to Hindu gods and goddesses, but it is all as Trinidadians. It is difficult to believe that the talented dancers, singers and beautifully sari-ed women are fellow citizens (in most cases). What an honour.
The Corporate presence was there in the form of FCB, the Ministry of Culture and Gender Affairs, TSTT, The Tourism Development Authority, the National Lottery Control Board, the National Gas Company and I saw a Mario's tent not quite next to Kampo Chinese Food and Pepper Roti but close enough. Divali Nagar's 2007 Yoga theme was highlighted by presentations and yoga sessions.

Divali or Deepavali, is an annual Hindu religious festival of lights. The sacred festival celebrates the triumph of light over darkness. Mother Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of light, beauty, affluence and spiritual wealth takes precedence at this event which takes place in October or November. The Divali Nagar Site in the borough of Chaguanas has taken on the character of a large fair with religious and cultural overtones. The main tented area has a large stage that features nightly entertainment and performances. While it is hot and sticky and rather plebian during the day; the nightly transformation into a magical, lighted bazaar is truly lovely. The lighting of deyas (small clay receptacles that hold the traditional coconut oil and wick) has transcended class, race and religion in Trinidad and is celebrated all over the country with much joy. It is usually the final usher of the full Christmas season in Trinidad and the characteristic "bursting of the bamboo" is a sure sign that the nights are shorter and Christmas is around the corner.
Tassa.
My sister in law is doing a work stint in Mumbai and she said that Trinidad is so similar. When she left Mumbai last week, the Tassa was starting up in the streets in preparation for Divali.




The ancient art of henna

When I discovered that we had arrived just in time for the Teen Miss Divali competition, I was slightly sceptical. Beauty contests are extraordinary. They often mimic the society in strange ways.
This one was no different. Each contestant was exquisite. But also exquisitely bright. All around 16 years of age, each one rattled off an impressive resume of academic qualifications. 8 O'Levels and onto a degree in Chemical Engineering was just one example.
I was touched and slightly startled by the extent that these girls were prepared. There was something of the midwestern little girl beauty shows. Anyone remember "Little Miss Sunshine"?


My very favorite photo. If I had to look at this everyday, I'm sure it would give me pleasure each time. Something about the elegance of an updo that implies both innocence and sophistication.

Fondes Amandes Community Reforestation Project

Hard to believe, but this bubbling brook is 10 minutes away from my home. It is easy to access and is pristine. Why? Because of the likes of Akilah Jaramogi who is the driving force behind the Fondes Amandes Community Reforestation Project. Fondes Amandes is a surburban area in St Anns, Trinidad and it is my home. Hilly terrain, it perches within the undulating Northern Range and, like most of the mountain ranges in Trinidad, is vulnerable to bush fires.
It is a difficult image to reconcile with the one above, but in the height of the dry season many of the valleys are smoke shrouded as the hills burn in the distance. When Tacuma and Akilah Jaramogi moved to the region in the 1970's to plant shortcrops on the hillside owned by WASA, annual fires were a serious problem. This was compounded by outsiders or "day-trippers" who would come to swim in the river and leave rubbish in their wake. Often fires would be started by a casually discarded cigarette. The late Tacuma had some forestry experience and began replanting fruit and hardwood trees. By involving the surrounding residents, a distinct community identity began to emerge as the couple took the initiative to change the cyclical pattern of fires and stop the destruction of the watershed.
Wikepedia defines a watershed as the area of land where all of the water drains to the same place – this includes water that flows on the surface and water located underground.
Without it, eventually all native flora and fauna disappear and the result is smoking barren peaks in the dry season, and substantial flooding in the rainy season.

Image courtesy Lum Lock, A and T. Geoghegan. 2006. Rewarding community efforts to protect watersheds: Case Study of Fondes Amandes, St Ann's. Trinidad and Tobago. Canari Who Pays for Water Project Document no.3.35pp.


A concerned parliamentary representative took an interest and put his support behind the fledgling effort. This combined with the sponsorship of responsible corporate citizens allowed for the development of an extraordinary and unprecedented project that has saved the life of one forest.

As early as 1991, The Fondes Amandes Community Reforestation Project caught the attention of both local and regional environmentalists, and, through the intervention of the Tropical Re-Leaf Foundation, the then- Chairman of WASA planted a ceremonial tree to signify his approval for the utilization of Fondes Amandes reservoir land that would be incorporated into the project. At the time, it seemed like a win-win situation for both WASA and the residents. Today it has evolved into something much greater than either party anticipated. The new prototype is remarkable on the most basic level because of its self sufficiency. Maintaining the watershed becomes beneficial to both WASA and the community and provides jobs as well as intangibles such as close community spirit.

Best of all there has not been a forest fire since the early 1990s.

One of the most stark examples that I have ever seen of a devastated watershed was years ago, when flying over Hispanola and making the transition from the Dominican Republic into Haiti, the emerald carpet that was the Dominican Republic forest came to an abrupt halt; the border demarcated with an ugly line of bare, scorched earth. With the perspective that comes from height, the results of slash and burn farming hit home.
Akilah, a mother of five. has been relentless in her pursuit of preserving the environment and has been crucial in corralling the resources of the community around her, spreading the message of respect for the land on which we live.
The main thrust is the replanting and the project now encompasses some 90 acres. It is not gently undulating land, it is steep.
It is 7.30am on Sunday morning and I am meeting members of the Maraval Rotary Club who have identified the project as a recipient of their community work. They have purchased some 30 odd mixed trees and are here to plant them. As they head up the path, it is obvious the level of work that has gone into managing this resource. Many of the trees are now fully re-established and the undergrowth is returning.



Today we are planting a mixture of pommerac, cashew, magumbo (a tall, forest tree with a velvet-y bean that Akilah uses in her jewellry) and flamboyants. I learn the members of the pea family (eg, pigeon peas and flamboyant, all identifiable with their small, distinctive leaves), are nitrogen producers and help return this crucial compound to the earth.
Johnny Stollmeyer is a key part of Akilah's team and is here helping this morning. Most of the trees are propogated on site and occasionally visiting schools and other charitable agencies donate trees.

Tree planting and fire trace cutting community gayaps have been held annually in support of the reforestation programme.

Certainly I blog about my garden, but so often I am reminded that it is not always about ornamentals. What Akilah has been able to do is beyond amazing. 90 acres of happy forest filled with birds, squirrels, agoutis, iguanas, hummingbirds and lots of clean, pure water.
It is a privilege to have her as a neighbour.

Garden Club Meeting

On Sunday last, The Garden Club of Trinidad launched its 2008 calendar. Following the same format as the 2007 one, its an ideal way to get a glimpse at some of the beautiful gardens that can be found in Trinidad. This is Chancy Moll, our President, who makes everything look effortless and easy. Don't underestimate the brainpower here. Chancy constantly amazes us with her ability to remember the complicated names and extraordinary connections that make up the tropical plant world. On any given day she can be found working in her magnificent rain forest garden.
Chancy with Janice Potter, our Vice-President. These ladies make managing a garden club look like a casual past time but we all know how much work goes into making the club run so smoothly.

Joanne de Gannes and Simone Taylor are both known for their expertise in the horticultural arenas. Both grow tropicals and supply the Horticultural Society of Trinidad and Tobago with many of the cut blooms that go up to represent Trinidad and Tobago at internationally renowned Flower Shows such as the RSH Chelsea Flower Show. Trinidad and Tobago was once again the recipient of a gold medal at this highly respected show. Joanne now runs a successful landscaping business and Simone Taylor is well known for her beautiful work in doing large tropical arrangements.
Committee member Ruth Hale kindly offered her home as the venue and it was a pleasure to walk around and see what she has done with the space. Ruth is also a successful landscaper whose home could not be a better advertisement! Above is the rock garden that flows just outside of her dining room. Below the golden berries of the purple duranta.
A bromeliad. Which one? I would be happy for a post to identify it.


One of the exquisite little Antillean Oncidiums. Once again, no name. Peter or Chancy, if you see this post , can you let me know what it is?Another beauty. I love these Oncidiums. They are so petite and pretty but so cheerful at the same time.This cattleya is the national flower of Costa Rica.


Blue bells. Not the real name,
Look at the red piping on this shampoo ginger.And the yellow on this upright heliconia.



This torch lily looks almost surreal. Nature's sense of form and order never fails to amaze me. For some reason, evolution has decided that this is the way that this plant should develop to ensure survival. Each colour will mean something to its wellbeing.

What I Loved About Nevis

Charlestown, Nevis. June 2007

Being born a West Indian means that I am less likely to sucuumb to the palm trees, blue sea, white sand, standard tourist pitch. The Caribbean islands are so much more complicated than the tidy packages presented by clever marketing. Nevis and St Kitts caught my attention with their startling topography (both islands live with central mountain peaks as dominant features), but also I was captivated by the tangible air of history that lends both islands a sense of depth that is the bounty of most diehard travellers.
Some of my favourite places.

Montpelier Estate has a rich and colourful history. It is where Admiral Horatio Nelson married the widow Fanny Nisbet. When Lady Di visited in 1992, she stayed at one of the simple cottages with the boys and would have enjoyed the splendid view of the broody mountain as well as the lovely afternoon breezes. The cut stone windmill is still one of the most striking features on the property, dating back to 1794. It is now run by the charming Hoffman family and their two gorgeous labradors, Calypso and Rudder.

This is the restored Bath Hotel which has the distinction of being the first spa in the West Indies. In its prime, it was a literal hot spot for visiting gentry. Guests that visited include Admiral Horatio Nelson and Samuel Taylor Coleridge.

The hot springs that bubbled out of the ground were the main attraction and they were thought to have tremendous restorative powers. When I visited in June, it was hard to imagine the buzz and excitement that must have once filled this grey cut stone building that now has the mundane duty of housing government officials.



Montravers estate would have been decadent even in its time. It is in ruins now but was one of the grandest estates of the region in the 18th century. When we visited on a hot,still June afternoon, we were initially confused when we saw the sign below.
Was this the great house? No, apparently this was the "cottage" that sat below the great Baobob tree. Further inland and in through the remains of a cut stone gateway, we came upon the real thing. This time there was no mistake because there are not many three storey ruins knocking around the countryside. Walking around the space was eerie with many of the walls still standing, but it was hard to get a proper perspective. In its day, it was said to have a sweeping staircase that could accomodate the hooped skirts of three ladies walking abreast. This is also where three camels were imported and housed.


There are a LOT of historic churches in Nevis (and St. Kitts). If you are a history buff and love cemetery reading, this is the island to visit. On a visit to the local potters, Newcastle Pottery, potters Almena and Dan were hard at work and this scene caught my eye.
I did not get a chance to visit St James Windward Church, which is best known for its black crucifix, one of three in the Caribbean. I did stop by the St Thomas's Lowland Church which is striking on the bluff overlooking the Western coast of Nevis with St Kitts in the distance.

St Thomas's Lowland Church was first built in 1643 and has tombstones dating back to the mid 1600s.
I fell in love with this loom. Could it be that I have never seen a loom before? That may explain some of the charm.
We use the coalpot quite frequently in Trinidad but I had never seen it used with a clay pot. Of course, it makes perfect sense but I still wonder if the food will stick. It seems to be perfect for a "big soup" or "sancoche" as we say here.

Sunshines Bar and Grill in Nevis

Lovely chicken lunch at Sunshines . The chicken was breast and BBQ breast can sometimes be very tough but this was tasty and tender. I especially like the use of the seasoning pepper for an accent. It provides both colour and flavour. Interestingly, there was very little chadon beni (our strong coriander like seasoning) on the island. For a dish like this, that flavour would be too strong but coriander is perfect.You can probably see that the chicken was basted at the last moment with the BBQ sauce and not put on the grill with it coated already. Although I know this inside out, I still persist, convinced that I know better. And inevitably have some blackened pieces. It is a feat to achieve colour, tenderness and flavour with BBQ chicken breast. It is probably one of the more difficult things to get absolutely perfect.

The rice was perfect and not gummy. I'm not sure what the stock base was, but would bet that there was some pumpkin in there.
I am cheating here as this shot was actually taken in June and not on this trip. This time around there was no sign of these breezy, funky curtains. I was so disappointed because I really like them.
Sunshines Bar at sundown.