Saturday, 1 November 2008

Lapeyrouse Cemetery

Lapeyrouse Cemetery's span is apparent from the 21st floor of the new Nicholas Tower in downtown Port of Spain. It lies north east of Victoria Square; two city blocks west of the savannah.
This afternoon it is lively and busy with industrious grave painters;flower arrangement vendors; and devoted family members for even though today is November 1st, the fading light is dotted with the soft glow of candles lighted to celebrate the memory of the dead. (All Soul's Day (sometimes called the "Day of the Dead") is always November 2 (November 3rd if the 2nd falls on a Sunday). All Soul's Day is a Roman Catholic day of remembrance for friends and loved ones who have passed away.http://all-souls-day.123holiday.net/ This comes from the ancient Pagan Festival of the Dead, which celebrated the Pagan belief that the souls of the dead would return for a meal with the family. http://all-souls-day.123holiday.net/This cemetery mirrors our society with extraordinary parallels. It is rich with history and stranger-than-fiction tales told by mossy headstones. It is laid out, like Port of Spain, in an organised grid pattern. So that in death, as in life, you are given an address. It's a reassuring thought and one that brings an odd sense of comfort.
Walking through the wide avenues of this heavily populated city of the deadit is possible to trace the history of Port of Spain. Here on the right as you enter, are the Chinese graves with their Chinese writing.On the left side of the main avenue is the large de Verteuil family crypt and down each avenue the histories beg to be told, each headstone a whole life lived. The first occurence of cholera in Trinidad was in 1853. "For two frightening months the epidemic raged and there were over two thousand deaths in Port of Spain out of a population of about 20,000. Whole families were wiped out and almost one in five persons in Port of Spain caught the disease." P93 Voices in the Street -Olga Mavrogordato. The last recorded outbreak of cholera was documented in 1865. It is said that the casualties of the cholera epidemic created this cemetery city. According to Olga Mavrogordato's Voices In the Street, "all the space from Richmond Street, between Tragarete Road and Fraser Street, as enclosed by a wall and called the Old Cemetery. It can be assumed that Lapeyrouse Cemetery came into being officially sometime after 1813. However it is recorded that there exists therein a headstone of one Jean Creteau who died in 1745. This shows that it must have been used as a cemetery during the Spainish occupation." P.20
Lapeyrouse Cemetery has fallen into disrepair over the last half-a-century; a severe indictment on a society that allows its dead to languish in squalour. It is currently populated by tenacious goats and equally formidable vagrants.
But on this afternoon in November, all is well for the moment and the soft murmur of families as they stroll through the avenues is a reassuring reminder that our dead live within us and not alone in the dusty vaults and crypts of a decaying cemetery.

Monday, 20 October 2008

Tulum





I have cabin fever. So I am taking an imaginary trip this morning. I am going back to some of the places that I visited earlier this year. We visited the Tulum Mayan Ruins in April (?) and at the time I said I would do more indepth posts on this fascinating culture. So here I am again, travelling vicariously through my photos. The text below is taken from the site http://www.mayanworld.com/ruinas/quinroo.htm#tulum
TULUM - The name Tulum in Mayan refers to its fortress like walls, but the real Mayan name for the site was "Zama" which means dawn. The site is located an easy drive down the coast from Playa del Carmen and is also easily accessible from Valladolid via Cobá. The ruins at Tulum are now part of a National Park covering some 1600 acres, but the ancient city stretches along the coast for almost four miles. This royal city, perched on limestone cliffs seems to rise right out of the beautiful Caribbean Sea.

The ruins are from the post-classic era of the Maya civilization and are fortified. While walled cities are not normal for the Maya, they existed in many of the postclassic cities. Tulum rose to prominence around 1200 A.D. a little more than three hundred years before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. Astronomy and celestial navigation, maritime trade, even weather forecasting were among the Maya achievements at this small but powerful city state.





The Maya who inhabited the Island of Cozumel were known to worship the sun at sunrise. And even though the site was named Zama for dawn, the Maya at Tulum are known to have worshipped the setting sun.
Tulum, unlike many other Maya cities has been used as a fortress into the 20th century.
In 1518 the Spanish documented sighting, what is surely Tulum. They compared the city to Seville in Spain and noted that there was a very tall tower seen there. This is certainly a reference to the Castillo. During the Maya uprising of the War for the Castes, which began in 1847 and lasted until 1901, Tulum served as a fortress for the rebels. In 1871 it was used as a sanctuary by the cult of the "Speaking Cross" of Santa Cruz. They were led by the Indian woman Maria Uicab, who was also known as the patron saint of Tulum.






These iguanas are everywhere.
One of the most interesting things about the architectural precision of Tulum is the natural show that takes places during the summer solstice. On this date, the sun is perfectly aligned to beam, with laser-like intensity through the centre of the Tulum Temple opening. This was a major event for the community and the high priests (all members of the nobility) exerted a fair amount of control over the unsuspecting masses with this impressive event. There is a small stone pallet high on the hill that receives both the sun beams and moon rays of this impressive engineering and architectural feat. The events were much anticipated and attracted crowds from neighbouring communities with what sounds like the equivalent of a moden day concert. Our guide also mentioned that attendees would also have received mild hallucinogens to enhance their spiritual experiences. The idea behind all of this was to maintain control over the masses by showing alignment with the gods. This ensured a docile, tax paying worker base who were happy to keep the priest happy. In an interesting note; any form of physical or mental disability meant instant access to the noble classes. They were absorbed into the highest families and seen as being specially "chosen" by the Gods.

Monday, 13 October 2008

Serious Gardeners

Yesterday the Garden Club of Trinidad launched the club's 2009 calendar, Gardening in Trinidad 2009. The launch was held at Chris Talma's home in the Santa Cruz valley. The showbench theme was "orchids" and there were some spectacular examples of unusual varieties. The Santa Cruz valley is exquisite at the best of times but from Chris's home, it is truly remarkable. The club's committee always manage to make their duties appear effortless. All of us who have ever served on a committee know that this could not be further from the truth. Below are the stalwarts and backbone of the club: Chancy Moll, president, Janice Potter, secretary and past vice-president and Jacinta, the ever-efficient treasurer.

This swing hangs from the magnificent saman tree that sits on the front lawn and looks over the northern range.
If I ever had to leave this country, this is the image that I would take with me. The saman branches stretched out against the backdrop of the northern range. This view says home so strongly: branded on my bones. When I land in another country, it's hard for me to imagine how the rest of the world navigates without mountains. A walk through the garden turns up beauties such as the berries on this palm

The orange flowers of the bromeliads tied onto a trunk

And my favorites, the calatheas

Here they are in combination - Chris is very good at creating mixed baskets - this is a combination that I would not have thought up on my own but it's one that I am very happy to copy. Bromeliads and calatheas.

Sunday, 12 October 2008

The Strange and Wonderful World of Orchids

Our steamy humid climate is perfect for orchids. The Cattleya is the blowsy tart of the the family Orchidaceae. She is irresistible to bees who visit to sample the Miss Cattleya's perfume. My husband is wary of Cattleyas. He finds them to showy for his liking but I love them as they are so over-the-top. A long-stemmed Dendrobium is the girl next door. Solid, dependable and occasionally, very beautiful. She will acclimatise easily to most conditions, blooming to show that she is happy and content.
The Oncidium is the shy beauty. The flower of many Oncidiums mimics the shape of a full-skirted dancing woman.

The centre of this "Chocolate Drop" Cattleya is as darkly beckoning as its namesake. It follows through on its name with the warm unmistakeable smell of chocolate.
Cattleya Cattleya "Chocolate Drop"

A Dendrobium on its way out.

The equitant Oncidium is native to the Caribbean. Each flower is tiny and perfect. A study in miniature.

Wednesday, 1 October 2008

Orchids and Begonias

I have waited for almost three years for this orchid to bloom. I bought one plant in flower and it has grown into a colony. I would guess that there are 15 to 20 plants in the basket now but all this frantic growth never produced a flower. Today I noticed that it is about to flower with at least 10 sprays. It is a tiny, neat little spray and I would guess that the plant is a member of the vanda family.

The pink begonias are going crazy and running all down the stairs. These are also lightly scented in the morning.
My firecracker hedge. I caught this entire hedge from piece. It was probably the most significant change to my garden when I moved in. This hedge blooms constantly and attacts both hummingbirds and butterflies.
The annual blooming of my wild orchid which I believe is a Catasetum macrocarpum (Male Flower) commly known as "monley goblet). According to the Trinidad and Tobago Orchid Society database: Flowers have a unique pollination mechanism. When the pollinator - usually a euglossine bee - lands on the lip a trigger mechanism on the column shoots pollen onto the back of the insect. Plants may be terrestrial growing in leaf mould in rock crevices, or epiphytic on tree trunks, branches and even telephone poles. Pseudobulbs fusiform with three to five large leaves. Inflorescences arise from the base of the pseudobulbs. Schultes

Tuesday, 30 September 2008

My Blogging Friends

I have made a lot of friends through blogging. My fellow Trinidadian bloggers are a diverse bunch. One of the first bloggers that I followed on line was Nicole at My Caribbean Garden http://caribbeangarden.blogspot.com/ . She is a Trini who currently lives in Anguilla and always has the most amazing posts on plants and food. She is celebrating todayIt was a lovely surprise to find out that I had won the Blotanical award for best South American blog. Thank you so much, my fellow garden bloggers and dear readers.My congratulations to all the winners and nominees, many of whom have been on my blog list since inception .http://caribbeangarden.blogspot.com/
Her post yesterday was all about chutneys - making them and eating them. A subject close to my own heart. Nicole and I met in Trinidad last year (in real life) making it my first "blind-blogger" experience.


Another on-line friend is Nan at http://thingsivefoundinpockets.blogspot.com/. She is mum to three boys who also have their own blog http://chasandsam.blogspot.com/. I love Nan's blog with its mix of manicous and tarantulas, little boys, gardens, life, nature, traffic jams and lots more thrown in the mix.

Another good friend is Courtenay at http://pariasprings.typepad.com/paria_springs_trinidad_an/. Courtenay Rooks is a very old friend. He is an excellent nature guide and adventure-traveller. He has made an appearance on the blog with my Avocat posts. He has recently been to Brazil and his posts are, in tandem, both entertaining and educational. .... From August 26th to September 3rd I had to privilege of being hosted by the ABETA and the Brazilian tourism ministry on adventures in the Cerrado (pronounced Sehado) of Brazil. After this I attended the 4th installment of the Adventure Travel Trade Summit,

which this time was actually the Adventure Travel Trade Summit of the Americas. Dam, I'm lucky!!! ;-)

I thought the

frogs in my garden were exotic.
Thses are just a few of the people that I visit on-line. There are many more listed on my site.